Building the main frame

After we opened the box and organized our bagged parts, and read the manual (at least for the following steps) we are ready to get started! Now as the manual states, there are sub assemblies that have to be built prior to assembly of the frame. Also there are some things about the kit that I don’t like and do slightly different, plus it’s not just a “slam it together and go” type kit. Also, we want this thing to fly perfectly. OK so let’s get started!

 

First let’s find the bag that we need “A” now let’s take out the bags in the bag and sort them out.

What I like to do, and I think we all have to do, is have some small containers of some sort to put all those small parts in until we need them. Some of the parts out of the main bag may not get used in the steps along with the majority of parts, you have to keep that in mind when you decide on how many containers you have on hand. Here are some examples of what I use.

this can be used for storage, carry with you, and temporary parts bins like we are in need of.

here are the small compartments in use

         After you carefully empty out the bag, make sure and hold it up against a flat background to make sure the bag is empty before you toss it in the trash.

that bag is empty

         When using loctite® near a bearing, make sure not to use too much, and try not to get it on the starter threads, the very beginning threads, as it will push most of it out when installing the bolt, and we don’t want any of that near our bearings. The bearing block shown below is for the Main Shaft.

use blue, this is going to be a service item and will have to come out one day. This bolt actually has more loctite than needed

notice no loctite oozing out onto my bearing!

          Now we have the bearing block for the Clutch Bell, the plastic is not perfect so I like to take some sand paper on a flat surface and sand the parts very gently until it just scrapes the entire mating area. We want this block to hold the bearing tight, but also want the block to mate at all surfaces, as the plastic bearing block will distort when tightened if not good and flat.

this is right out of the box, looks good, but it's not to my liking

after sanding, only just to where the surfaces are just touched, no more.

Unless of course the bearing wiggles in there...

Here are the beaings installed

the finished product, no gaps, no side play on the bearings.

 

                     I also like to lightly sand the “E” clip for the clutch bell to make sure it’s smooth from coming out of the stamp that made it. Then I install the side that was sanded toward the bearing. By the way, my clutch liner was pre installed.

just lighty sanded to get the rough edges off

E clip installed on the start shaft.

          The instructions say to use loctite® on the pinion, but I don’t do this on the clutch bell side. The engine will tighten this when it’s running, and hold it tight, plus that steel pinion gets really tight against the aluminum bell after a few runs. One day we are going to have to change that clutch bearing, or lining, and if you are not happy with the gearing, the pinion itself will have to come out. On the top part of the pinion I used loctite®, and only a very little so as not to get any on the bearing. Also the picture is not clear on the top and bottom of the pinion. The top has that extra part with no threads.  

Page with diagram

pinion installed waiting for the bearings

               I don’t particularly care for TT links, I like rocket city links better, so here I modified my “A” arms to use Rocket City links. 

Links were shortened, and top of A arms were trimmed

I used a very small amount of dielectric silicone grease on the “A” arm pivots not that any is really needed, but to prevent corrosion on those dewy mornings or evenings, it’s not a bad idea. The little "E" clips that go on those small shafts are a bugger... make sure you don't mangle them up, here is how I get them on.... I set them onto the flat of the "A" arm, then I squeeze them onto the shaft with a small set of needle nose pliers. After that we have to make sure the links move freely on the balls of the swash plate (in this case). You can either use a sizing tool like this one, OR GENTLY squeeze the link while on the ball till it moves freely. We don't want it just moving all over, but also not sticking like it was glued on there. Now we can assemble the upper section, but DO NOT tighten the bearing blocks or use Loctite at this point, this will need to be done later after the main gear is installed...

grease (not really needed)

"E" Clip on the "A" arm

"E" Clip secured

sizing link

Making sure link is moving freely

here are our parts inside the upper frame.

That was EASY

Now lets get that tail drive put together! this easy too, we just have to shove the gears onto the shaft, then shove the small pin into the gear, through the hole in the shaft, and on the end of the shaft there is a small allen set screw. Now on this, you should not use red Loctite, you will never get it out again, and one day these gears are going to have to be changed, and do not come with the shaft. If however you do use red Loctite, you can hold a soldering iron the set screw to heat the Loctite. Also on my drive gears I did not need any of the shim washers that come with the kit for endplay adjustment. I didn't go into a lot of detail here, but again make sure the mating surfaces are smooth.

halves assembled

gears in gear housing with bearings

 The 90SE also comes with frame stiffeners... these will get installed with 4 screws, and then install the spacers and fit the fan case together, also get the fuel tank ready. Since we are going to be running 30% Nitro most of the time, we are going to want to upgrade that fuel line in the tank now that it is out, I have had good luck with Hayes line, also I use a heavier clunk. Now that all the sub assemblies are ready, lets get going with those screws after we put some washers one them!

frames sides and aluminum stiffeners

fan case

Hayes fuel line

gromets for fuel tank support

Washers waiting for screws

Now we are loaded and ready!

Now in this part we just need to make sure we get all the holes filled up and don't miss anything. I started one half at a time and also made sure the small plastic spacers were nice and smooth for rigidity against the upper carbon frame assembly. Also, take your time so you don't miss any steps, and don't forget the fuel tank in there, after this we are done with the frame!

Left outside of frame

Left inside of frame with the spacers in there

close up of bearing block in left frame half

Ready to accept upper frame assembly

Upper frame spacers

spacers installed

Upper assembly installed

frame is upside down here while installing fuel tank

completed frame

completed frame!